Folks,
I'm going to hand-carve the next stamps I need for letterboxes. Not having
done this before "in the field" I need to know what supplies to take with
me to my destination. I've got everything figured out, I think, except what
glue to use to fasten the eraser to the wooden handle.
I checked Der Mad Stamper's page, linked to the LBNA page. He recommends
rubber cement. The location where I will be placing my next letterbox is
probably the epitome of harsh conditions: extreme temperature range, very
low humidity, etc. I guess my question is whether rubber cement will hold
up if the temperature in the box exceeds 140 degrees F. (assuming the BOX
holds up!).
Has anyone used other glues? I'm thinking of Barge Cement and of "Goop" --
both of which come in tubes I can take with me on this trip -- but have no
experience with either in the realm of the wood/eraser interface. This will
be an "orphan" box; I will probably never see it again after placing it. So
I need to be sure the stamp will stay intact.
I'd appreciate any and all advice.
-Mark
attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
8 messages in this thread |
Started on 1999-10-07
[LbNA] attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
From: Mark Sheehan (sheehan@montana.campuscwix.net) |
Date: 1999-10-07 19:28:56 UTC-06:00
[LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
From: James Davis (farenht@alaska.net) |
Date: 1999-10-07 17:42:09 UTC-08:00
Paper artists and rubber stampers are intot his-- check a
search engine and find some stamp stores-- they can help you!
----- Original Message -----From: Mark SheehanSent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 5:28 PMSubject: [LbNA] attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?Folks,
I'm going to hand-carve the next stamps I need for letterboxes. Not having
done this before "in the field" I need to know what supplies to take with
me to my destination. I've got everything figured out, I think, except what
glue to use to fasten the eraser to the wooden handle.
I checked Der Mad Stamper's page, linked to the LBNA page. He recommends
rubber cement. The location where I will be placing my next letterbox is
probably the epitome of harsh conditions: extreme temperature range, very
low humidity, etc. I guess my question is whether rubber cement will hold
up if the temperature in the box exceeds 140 degrees F. (assuming the BOX
holds up!).
Has anyone used other glues? I'm thinking of Barge Cement and of "Goop" --
both of which come in tubes I can take with me on this trip -- but have no
experience with either in the realm of the wood/eraser interface. This will
be an "orphan" box; I will probably never see it again after placing it. So
I need to be sure the stamp will stay intact.
I'd appreciate any and all advice.
-Mark
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Java or juggling?. Everybody learns something at Learn2.com. Where
you'll find thousands of free 2torials, affordable online courses, and
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eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
[LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
From: Thom Cheney (tcgrafx@imagina.com) |
Date: 1999-10-07 21:30:20 UTC-07:00
Mark Sheehan wrote:
>
> Has anyone used other glues? I'm thinking of Barge Cement and of "Goop" --
> both of which come in tubes I can take with me on this trip -- but have no
> experience with either in the realm of the wood/eraser interface.
Attaching dissimilar materials is really a pain. I have had some
success with "Goop" products. Some silicone based adhesives will work
as well. I found good old construction adhesive (sold up here under the
name "Liquid Nails") in a small, resealable tube condusive to packing in
and out & not much weight. It seems to stick to most anything and is
good for exterior applications. I have had better luck with it than the
various forms of "Goop" that I have tried.
Epoxy might actually be the best bet. Unfortunately, I don't have a
type or brand to recommend. Go to Home Depot... read some labels!
good luck!
--
Thom Cheney
tcgrafx... among other things
>
> Has anyone used other glues? I'm thinking of Barge Cement and of "Goop" --
> both of which come in tubes I can take with me on this trip -- but have no
> experience with either in the realm of the wood/eraser interface.
Attaching dissimilar materials is really a pain. I have had some
success with "Goop" products. Some silicone based adhesives will work
as well. I found good old construction adhesive (sold up here under the
name "Liquid Nails") in a small, resealable tube condusive to packing in
and out & not much weight. It seems to stick to most anything and is
good for exterior applications. I have had better luck with it than the
various forms of "Goop" that I have tried.
Epoxy might actually be the best bet. Unfortunately, I don't have a
type or brand to recommend. Go to Home Depot... read some labels!
good luck!
--
Thom Cheney
tcgrafx... among other things
[LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
From: erik/susan davis (davisarc@wcvt.com) |
Date: 1999-10-08 00:04:59 UTC-07:00
Mark:
I used rubber cement on my first (Prayer Rock) - coat each surface (wood
and eraser), let it dry thoroughly (couple of minutes) carefully
position and press together. Slapping together wet will leave a
removable bond (good for some things, but not what you want here). This
has held up fine, altho nowhere near the temperature extreems that you
describe! All others have been with Factis erasers - thick enough not to
need a backer board, altho it would be an improvement (clean fingers,
etc).
I think the key to survival is whether or not the glue stays flexible
over the long term - dissimilar materials usually have different
coefficients of thermal expansion, so, with a wide temperature swing,
they tend to work apart if the cement is not flexible enough to absorbe
the movement.
Contact cement (stuff in a can for laying floor tiles, plastic laminate
countertops, etc) is designed for this - nearly 3 decades ago, I
lathe-turned a bowl, using mahogany and aluminum, and first assembled
the blanks with "Weldwood" contact cement - worked like a charm over
this long span. My gut feeling is that the barge cement and Goop will do
just fine - read the temperature range on the tube too see if it is
appropriate.
BTW, I like the idea of a wood blank, so one can stamp the blank first,
and then assemble - helps with getting the impression where you want it.
BTW (2) - I've just found a free supply of wood perfect for blanks -
about 3/8" thick, smooth poplar, offcuts from a local wood products
business. I'm willing to make a few blanks (gratis) if anyone would like
to try them and has no other good source. Let me know off-line if you'd
like to do this (either tell me the size, or send a stamp impression for
me to match).
Mark - let us know what you try.
Erik
Viking of VT
I used rubber cement on my first (Prayer Rock) - coat each surface (wood
and eraser), let it dry thoroughly (couple of minutes) carefully
position and press together. Slapping together wet will leave a
removable bond (good for some things, but not what you want here). This
has held up fine, altho nowhere near the temperature extreems that you
describe! All others have been with Factis erasers - thick enough not to
need a backer board, altho it would be an improvement (clean fingers,
etc).
I think the key to survival is whether or not the glue stays flexible
over the long term - dissimilar materials usually have different
coefficients of thermal expansion, so, with a wide temperature swing,
they tend to work apart if the cement is not flexible enough to absorbe
the movement.
Contact cement (stuff in a can for laying floor tiles, plastic laminate
countertops, etc) is designed for this - nearly 3 decades ago, I
lathe-turned a bowl, using mahogany and aluminum, and first assembled
the blanks with "Weldwood" contact cement - worked like a charm over
this long span. My gut feeling is that the barge cement and Goop will do
just fine - read the temperature range on the tube too see if it is
appropriate.
BTW, I like the idea of a wood blank, so one can stamp the blank first,
and then assemble - helps with getting the impression where you want it.
BTW (2) - I've just found a free supply of wood perfect for blanks -
about 3/8" thick, smooth poplar, offcuts from a local wood products
business. I'm willing to make a few blanks (gratis) if anyone would like
to try them and has no other good source. Let me know off-line if you'd
like to do this (either tell me the size, or send a stamp impression for
me to match).
Mark - let us know what you try.
Erik
Viking of VT
[LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
From: Ed Bourne (edb@bigfoot.com) |
Date: 1999-10-14 21:14:53 UTC
>Hi , I'm totally new to letterboxing but not new to glue. I would recommend
>Formica laminate glue.
Great idea! I've been using contact cement, but I'm not thrilled with the
adhesion. I'm concerned that it won't hold over time and weather. I will go
to Home Depot and get some for my next stamp!
>My daughter and I would like some clues to boxes in CT. We're going to get
>started by trying to find one ! Hope this was helpful.
> Randy
There are some great boxes in Conn. We found some this summer (our first
Letterbox adventures!). Good luck.
Ed
[LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
From: randy weiss (radical451@hotmail.com) |
Date: 1999-10-14 16:40:36 UTC-07:00
Hi , I'm totally new to letterboxing but not new to glue. I would recommend
Formica laminate glue. It is applied with a brush or roller to both pieces,
allowed to dry (till tacky) then both pieces are put together and pressed or
rolled out to remove any air bubbles. Once the two parts are together good
luck getting them apart so be sure they are lined up where you want them
before you let them touch. If it is a large or oddly shaped piece you can
use waxed paper between them to get them aligned and then fold up one side
,remove the waxed paper from one side and let one half of the two pieces
touch then fold up the other side , remove the paper and finish the job. I
will admit to not having performed this with these two materials but it
should work great ! Incidentally- now you can relaminate your countertops!
My daughter and I would like some clues to boxes in CT. We're going to get
started by trying to find one ! Hope this was helpful.
Randy
>From: "James Davis"
>Reply-To: letterbox-usa@egroups.com
>To:
>Subject: [LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
>Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 17:42:09 -0800
>
>Paper artists and rubber stampers are intot his-- check a search engine and
>find some stamp stores-- they can help you!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Sheehan
> To: letterbox-usa@egroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 5:28 PM
> Subject: [LbNA] attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm going to hand-carve the next stamps I need for letterboxes. Not
>having
> done this before "in the field" I need to know what supplies to take
>with
> me to my destination. I've got everything figured out, I think, except
>what
> glue to use to fasten the eraser to the wooden handle.
>
> I checked Der Mad Stamper's page, linked to the LBNA page. He recommends
> rubber cement. The location where I will be placing my next letterbox is
> probably the epitome of harsh conditions: extreme temperature range,
>very
> low humidity, etc. I guess my question is whether rubber cement will
>hold
> up if the temperature in the box exceeds 140 degrees F. (assuming the
>BOX
> holds up!).
>
> Has anyone used other glues? I'm thinking of Barge Cement and of "Goop"
>--
> both of which come in tubes I can take with me on this trip -- but have
>no
> experience with either in the realm of the wood/eraser interface. This
>will
> be an "orphan" box; I will probably never see it again after placing it.
>So
> I need to be sure the stamp will stay intact.
>
> I'd appreciate any and all advice.
>
> -Mark
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Java or juggling?. Everybody learns something at Learn2.com. Where
> you'll find thousands of free 2torials, affordable online courses, and
> useful tips for everyday life. http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/964
>
>
> eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
> http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
>http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
______________________________________________________
[LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
From: Candice M DiDominick (CANDICED@prodigy.net) |
Date: 1999-10-14 22:05:19 UTC-07:00
At stamp stores you can buy foam that already has adhesive on both sides.
One side goes on the stamp and one side on the would. Many stampers buy
unmounted stamps and use the mounting foam to finish the job of mounting the
stamp to the wood or acrylic mount.
You may even be able to buy this product on the internet. Search "Rubber
Stamping" and you will get many hits. I have bought stamping perephinalia
(spelling?) from California Stampin but don't know if they carry the
mounting foam.
----- Original Message -----
From: randy weiss
To:
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 4:40 PM
Subject: [LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
Hi , I'm totally new to letterboxing but not new to glue. I would recommend
Formica laminate glue. It is applied with a brush or roller to both pieces,
allowed to dry (till tacky) then both pieces are put together and pressed or
rolled out to remove any air bubbles. Once the two parts are together good
luck getting them apart so be sure they are lined up where you want them
before you let them touch. If it is a large or oddly shaped piece you can
use waxed paper between them to get them aligned and then fold up one side
,remove the waxed paper from one side and let one half of the two pieces
touch then fold up the other side , remove the paper and finish the job. I
will admit to not having performed this with these two materials but it
should work great ! Incidentally- now you can relaminate your countertops!
My daughter and I would like some clues to boxes in CT. We're going to get
started by trying to find one ! Hope this was helpful.
Randy
>From: "James Davis"
>Reply-To: letterbox-usa@egroups.com
>To:
>Subject: [LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
>Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 17:42:09 -0800
>
>Paper artists and rubber stampers are intot his-- check a search engine and
>find some stamp stores-- they can help you!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Sheehan
> To: letterbox-usa@egroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 5:28 PM
> Subject: [LbNA] attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm going to hand-carve the next stamps I need for letterboxes. Not
>having
> done this before "in the field" I need to know what supplies to take
>with
> me to my destination. I've got everything figured out, I think, except
>what
> glue to use to fasten the eraser to the wooden handle.
>
> I checked Der Mad Stamper's page, linked to the LBNA page. He recommends
> rubber cement. The location where I will be placing my next letterbox is
> probably the epitome of harsh conditions: extreme temperature range,
>very
> low humidity, etc. I guess my question is whether rubber cement will
>hold
> up if the temperature in the box exceeds 140 degrees F. (assuming the
>BOX
> holds up!).
>
> Has anyone used other glues? I'm thinking of Barge Cement and of "Goop"
>--
> both of which come in tubes I can take with me on this trip -- but have
>no
> experience with either in the realm of the wood/eraser interface. This
>will
> be an "orphan" box; I will probably never see it again after placing it.
>So
> I need to be sure the stamp will stay intact.
>
> I'd appreciate any and all advice.
>
> -Mark
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Java or juggling?. Everybody learns something at Learn2.com. Where
> you'll find thousands of free 2torials, affordable online courses, and
> useful tips for everyday life. http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/964
>
>
> eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
> http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
>http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
______________________________________________________
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get the most popular downloads on the Web. Theyre new!
Theyre hot! They're FREE! Utilities, drivers, games.
It's all here. http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1158
eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
One side goes on the stamp and one side on the would. Many stampers buy
unmounted stamps and use the mounting foam to finish the job of mounting the
stamp to the wood or acrylic mount.
You may even be able to buy this product on the internet. Search "Rubber
Stamping" and you will get many hits. I have bought stamping perephinalia
(spelling?) from California Stampin but don't know if they carry the
mounting foam.
----- Original Message -----
From: randy weiss
To:
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 4:40 PM
Subject: [LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
Hi , I'm totally new to letterboxing but not new to glue. I would recommend
Formica laminate glue. It is applied with a brush or roller to both pieces,
allowed to dry (till tacky) then both pieces are put together and pressed or
rolled out to remove any air bubbles. Once the two parts are together good
luck getting them apart so be sure they are lined up where you want them
before you let them touch. If it is a large or oddly shaped piece you can
use waxed paper between them to get them aligned and then fold up one side
,remove the waxed paper from one side and let one half of the two pieces
touch then fold up the other side , remove the paper and finish the job. I
will admit to not having performed this with these two materials but it
should work great ! Incidentally- now you can relaminate your countertops!
My daughter and I would like some clues to boxes in CT. We're going to get
started by trying to find one ! Hope this was helpful.
Randy
>From: "James Davis"
>Reply-To: letterbox-usa@egroups.com
>To:
>Subject: [LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
>Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 17:42:09 -0800
>
>Paper artists and rubber stampers are intot his-- check a search engine and
>find some stamp stores-- they can help you!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Sheehan
> To: letterbox-usa@egroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 5:28 PM
> Subject: [LbNA] attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm going to hand-carve the next stamps I need for letterboxes. Not
>having
> done this before "in the field" I need to know what supplies to take
>with
> me to my destination. I've got everything figured out, I think, except
>what
> glue to use to fasten the eraser to the wooden handle.
>
> I checked Der Mad Stamper's page, linked to the LBNA page. He recommends
> rubber cement. The location where I will be placing my next letterbox is
> probably the epitome of harsh conditions: extreme temperature range,
>very
> low humidity, etc. I guess my question is whether rubber cement will
>hold
> up if the temperature in the box exceeds 140 degrees F. (assuming the
>BOX
> holds up!).
>
> Has anyone used other glues? I'm thinking of Barge Cement and of "Goop"
>--
> both of which come in tubes I can take with me on this trip -- but have
>no
> experience with either in the realm of the wood/eraser interface. This
>will
> be an "orphan" box; I will probably never see it again after placing it.
>So
> I need to be sure the stamp will stay intact.
>
> I'd appreciate any and all advice.
>
> -Mark
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Java or juggling?. Everybody learns something at Learn2.com. Where
> you'll find thousands of free 2torials, affordable online courses, and
> useful tips for everyday life. http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/964
>
>
> eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
> http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
>http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
______________________________________________________
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get the most popular downloads on the Web. Theyre new!
Theyre hot! They're FREE! Utilities, drivers, games.
It's all here. http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1158
eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/letterbox-usa
http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
[LbNA] Re: attaching erasers to handles -- what glue?
From: B. J. Drew (nep1bjd@nep10.med.navy.mil) |
Date: 1999-10-18 06:36:36 UTC-04:00
Randy, you asked about CT letterboxes, and Ed mentioned that there are some
great ones. He's right! At www.letterboxing.org just click on CT on the US
map and you'll find plenty of clues (all in southeastern CT so far), thanks
to the northeast webmaster Tom Cooch. Or, swing by the EMS store in the
Crystal Mall in Waterford. They have a great little binder with 20 or so
cluesheets all ready to go. Let us know what you find!
Jay
>My daughter and I would like some clues to boxes in CT. We're going to get
>started by trying to find one ! Hope this was helpful.
> Randy
>
>
>
great ones. He's right! At www.letterboxing.org just click on CT on the US
map and you'll find plenty of clues (all in southeastern CT so far), thanks
to the northeast webmaster Tom Cooch. Or, swing by the EMS store in the
Crystal Mall in Waterford. They have a great little binder with 20 or so
cluesheets all ready to go. Let us know what you find!
Jay
>My daughter and I would like some clues to boxes in CT. We're going to get
>started by trying to find one ! Hope this was helpful.
> Randy
>
>
>